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Pension Incomes Are Difficult to Beat

By Scott Burns

Q. My wife, age 57, is retiring at the end of the year. She has a teacher’s retirement pension with different options. We have narrowed the decision down to two options:
—She can receive $1,900 a month for life, or;
—She can receive a one-time lump sum of $26,000 and $1,700 a month for life.

Would it be a good idea to roll over the lump sum into an IRA account (so she could continue to defer taxes) or would it be wiser to keep it simple and take the full pension? We feel the second choice would give us a good little nestegg, but only if we put it to work wisely. —R.A., by email

A. Most people, most of the time, are better off taking the full pension rather than the pension and cash— if they have the option at all. The primary reason for this is income. You won’t be able to get nearly as much income from investing the cash as you will get from the pension.

At your ages, to get the same $200 a month from the $26,000 lump sum as you would get from the pension, for instance, you would need a reliable return of 9.2 percent. That isn’t going to happen. A more likely result is about 4 percent or $1,040 a year. That’s less than half of taking it as a pension life income. (Note: This isn’t an apples-to-apples comparison, the 9.2 percent is fixed for life while the 4 percent might rise with inflation and could even be left in your estate. The full pension disappears when you do.) Even so, it would be years— possibly your lifetimes— before you’d have more purchasing power from the investment than from the pension.)

So unless you have no other savings— nothing in an IRA, 403(b) or other investment account— you should take the full pension.

Q. A few years ago, I made an expensive impulse purchase. I bought a Marriott time-share, located on Spain's Costa del Sol on the Mediterranean Sea. I conveniently, and regrettably, forgot to delve further into the details concerning the annual maintenance fees, etc. I no longer call my timeshare an "investment"— as it was portrayed during the low-key sales presentation.

Having the timeshare forces me to regularly take more meaningful (and expensive) vacations than I might otherwise take. I've grown accustomed to the semi-complex features of the program: Balancing the splitting of my 3 bedroom unit into 2 sections and getting 2 weeks to trade via Interval International; taking Marriott points every other year to use at other Marriott properties; and, coordinating a timeshare week at a location of my choosing which also corresponds with reasonable airfares to the nearest airport.

I understand that my annual fees actually provide something of value to me: 7 nights at my home resort, which is really a very good price per night for a 3 bedroom, 3 bath unit. However, I would prefer that the time-share be located in the US. This would save on travel expenses and avoid exchange-rate fluctuations with the euro. Would I do it all over again? A resounding "No!" I'd rather have my purchase money for true "investments."

With the possibility of a bailout by the European Union for Spain, how might this affect my timeshares annual maintenance fees? Is it likely that they will increase dramatically? Or, could the Euro's value relative to the dollar decline due the weakened strength of the EU as a whole?

Should I cut my losses and sell the timeshare? I know the world economy will rebound and there will always be a fluctuating demand for first class vacation facilities along the Mediterranean. So, the well-managed and maintained Marriott resort should hold its value, and, might even appreciate. It would probably have to double in value for me to get back my original investment. —W.N., by email

A. A timeshare is a pretty tough way to bet on the future of the Euro and inflation. In the current environment, we can be pretty sure that lots of people are thinking very much as you are. If they have a timeshare at all, they will want it close to home, perhaps even within driving distance.

Realistically, you’ve got two choices: (1) trade your existing timeshare points for time at places that are much closer or (2) sell it and take the loss.

Only published comments... Dec 29 2010, 03:00 PM by admin


Comments

 

danhughes said:

Scott, the retiring teacher who can take $26k cash and $1,700 a month, or no cash and $1,900 a month -

I think you forgot that she's not just earning interest on the $26,000, she also HAS that $26,000.

Seems to me that if she takes the $1,900 a month, it will take 130 months, or almost 11 years, to get that extra $26,000 that she could have today.  

So if she dies before she's 68, she loses.  

And if she lives to a ripe old age, whatever interest she gets on the $26,000 for the next 11 years is gravy - it will be at the 11-year mark that she'll need to start earning 9.2% to keep up.  

But if her $26,000 earned the 4% you predict for those 11 years and she leaves it in to compound, she'll have another $12,000 earned from the $26,000 lump sum, which will keep her ahead of the other option for another five years, which means she will be 73 when she finally starts to pull ahead with her $1,900 per month.

Now, if she dies before she's 73 she loses.

I think I'd go with the lump sum.

December 29, 2010 9:43 PM
 

tooluser said:

Her life expectancy, according to www.ssa.gov/.../table4c6.html, is 83+ years of age.

Absent other contrary information, I think it's best to plan that you will have an above-average lifespan. So planning to live to 95-100 years old may reveal the best choice.

December 30, 2010 11:37 PM
 

danhughes said:

Her life expectancy may be 83 years, but what are the chances she will spend the last several of those years in a nursing home that takes her savings and her monthly checks, making their extra $200 per month immaterial?

And another point - will that additional $200 per month be a lot less in 15 years than it is now, thanks to inflation?

December 31, 2010 10:44 AM

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